Okay that was Christianity. What about religion in general?
During my long visit with Chinese Christians in the house church in Beijing they expressed concern that:
- the Chinese government is actively promoting/supporting Buddhism and even Islam
- some people want Buddhism to become the official religion of China – because Christianity is perceived as Western even American whereas Buddhism is somehow Asian
I was skeptical of this at first. In most parts of China I did not see strong evidence that the Chinese government actively promotes/supports any particular religion. But there were a couple places along my journey where I saw some things that indicated their concerns were well founded.
Shaanxi province was by far the most troubling. Two words: Famen Si (or Temple).
Inside entrance complex of Famen Temple - note stupa in distance
Famen Temple is an important Buddhist site. Where archeologists discovered a finger bone that supposedly belonged to the Sakyamuni Buddha. (Actually there were several finger bones. The idea being that if thieves tried to steal the sacred relic they would never be sure if they had the original finger bone or a copy.) There is a temple and surrounding monastery along with a small museum. Well and fine.
Except that a couple years ago the Chinese government built a new complex that partly surrounds and partly replaces the original temple complex. Absolutely colossal. More than 150 acres. With an immense Namaste Dagoba stupa which is the new resting place for the finger bone. (Most of the time one can see a copy. The real finger bone in its crystal enclosure is on a special platform that is raised and lowered two times each day.) And a gate/entrance complex that is two kilometers from the stupa and original temple/monastery.
Namaste stupa - the colossal "hands" are purely decorative
The cost of the new complex must have been staggering. According to my Chinese friends some of the money actually came from Buddhist Society of China. But most came from the Chinese government.
From my journal:
It is difficult to describe just how immense and expensive and utterly appalling this complex is. Used to be just the old temple and museum. Now a gigantic complex of buildings complete with 2 kilometer walk to the new temple. Very expensive admission price [something like 150 RNB aka yuan - although an electronic sign seemed to indicate that people who have official Buddhist religion cards(?) can enter for free]. Guides offer to show us around for 400Y which is an princely sum. Buy incense! Buy! The whole thing reeks.
Z_ stays outside while Y_ and I forgo the the car ride – for a fee of course – and walk the entire distance. There is a cheap insincerity to all the statues and inscriptions along the way. This is what happens when the government decides to involve itself in religion! Some of the funds came from the Buddhist Society. But most came from the Chinese government. They wanted to build something truly grand in order to show off such an important historical site.
Nonsense. They wanted to make a killing.
Cheesy music warbles along the way. “Be peaceful and happy”. Perhaps what the Chinese government wants the people to hear? Have enough to eat. Be calm. So that we can remain utterly and completely in control.
Apparently the old temple contained a finger bone of the (a?) Buddha (Sakyamuni who I guess is a primary Buddhist saint?). But the Chinese government felt it necessary to construct this ginormous sprawling complex and move the finger bone to a gigantic new modern temple. It is in some sort of crystal enshrined podium(?) that is raised and lowered at various times during the day. You can pay 10Y – or was that 100Y? – to have a little lamp remain lit constantly in the temple. Police and military guards everywhere. Leave an offering! Put some money in the box! Buy a souvenir! Oh and be happy. Reminds me a little of the early George Lucas film “THX 1138”.
We head down and to the old temple and museum area. Into pagoda and downstairs. Pay the monk to strike a bell while you pray. Gong. Gong. No pictures! This is a holy place! Yeah right.
The attached museum area is genuinely interesting. Artifacts found in – taken from? – the original temple. Including the boxes-within-boxes which housed the finger bone. Apparently there were several finger bones – so that if thieves took one they would not know if it was the true original or a duplicate. The head of the monastery is also a member of the People’s Committee(?) – so it is also a highly political position. Follow the teachings of the Buddha. And be a good obedient citizen of the People’s Republic of China. [emphasis added]
Use public funds to promote Buddhism. Charge exorbitant fees to get in. The head of the “religious” site is a politician.
Billboard at back exit focusing on head of monastery
In Shanxi province (which is to the east of Shaanxi province and I now know the difference between the two) I visited a few old Buddhist temples. Yes there were admission fees. And yes they were still used as temples. One would see monks as well as ordinary Chinese people come and burn incense and pray and leave offerings.
(I would add that a curious feature of many Buddhist temples is that there is also the presence of Chinese traditional religion. Statues and shrines to the earth god or goddess of mercy. These are not just of historical interest. Some Chinese people come and pray for particular concerns. And return to give a thanks offering if those prayers are answered.)
This points out a dilemma that all governments face. How do you deal with historical sites that are also religious sites? This question came up during a mildly heated discussion with Chinese friends in Shanghai (who argued that the Chinese government does not support or favor any particular religion). I appreciate that the government has an interest in preserving historical sites that also happen to be religious sites. When they do so – and charge admission fees – can one fairly criticize them of promoting religion? One might argue that if those historical sites are being used today then the faith community that prays/worships there should be responsible. How do you balance public/historical interest with particular/religious interest?
But – and this is how I countered my friends in Shanghai – surely Famen Temple goes too far. This is not simply “okay let’s protect the old temple and charge a modest admission fee”. This is “let’s use vast amounts of public money to build an unnecessarily huge monument to Buddhism – complete with new statues and a new temple”. The political role of the head of the monastery cannot be overlooked. He is not a simple Buddhist monk. He is a politician.
I could also mention the Gwanlin temple/complex outside Guangzhou. Although it was not clear to me how much government support (as opposed to private/religious support) was involved.
Gwanlin Pavilion outside Guangzhou
It might sound like I am picking on Buddhism. I am not. The historical/religious site problem applies to old churches and cathedrals. And I would like to think if the United States government ever did a Christian version of Famen Temple that American Christians of good will would be deeply troubled.
(Monumental displays of the Ten Commandments in public buildings anyone? Incoming!)
I was not able to get a good sense of religious freedom for Muslims. In most cities one can easily find restaurants that specifically advertise halal food and where one will see both Chinese and foreign Muslims come to eat.
I did not see much in the way of Taoism – until I visited Lao Mountain outside Qingdao. During our two hour hike through the park (which was beautiful and genuinely moving) twice we came across Taoist temples. Very different from the many Buddhist temples. No hoards of women trying to sell incense sticks or souvenirs. No extra admission fees.
Entrance to Taoist temple in Lao Mountain park
Just simple dignified shrines. At the second shrine there were Taoist monks. None of whom tried to sell us anything. They were just… there. I was impressed by the simplicity and apparent honesty. One can argue that because these shrines/temples are part of a national park they implicitly/indirectly receive government support. Maybe. But (a) did they choose to be located inside a national park? and (b) no one asked for any money at these sites.
By the way – there are some who would argue Taoism is not a religion so much as a philosophy. For what it is worth both sites had statues of deities to which people pray.
While in Shaanxi province I heard about a group of Latter Day Saints who meet in Xi’an. Although part of me does not want to see Mormonism gain a foothold in China I have to be fair. If I believe in religious freedom for Christians then I must support religious freedom for everyone else.
Let’s talk about Hong Kong
That is the People’s Republic of China. Where there seems to be a high degree of religious freedom within certain limits. But also troubling examples of government involvement in particular religions – especially in Buddhism.
Hong Kong is radically different. In a nutshell Hong Kong is where religious groups fled after the Communist Revolution and during the Cultural Revolution of the 1960s. In many ways Hong Kong still preserves more traditional-conservative expressions of many religions. Hong Kong is where many Chinese Christians go to receive seminary training if they are not able to study in the United States.
I happened to visit the Jewish community during my one night stay. Rabbi Stan Zamek of United Jewish Congregation used to serve as the rabbi of Beth Shalom Synagogue here in Baton Rouge. I had the pleasure of participating in their Friday night Shabbat service. Followed by kosher dinner in the Jewish Community Building. And then a couple hours delightful conversation with Stan and his wife Martha who is also a rabbi.
I asked Stan if there are particular problems facing the Jewish community in Hong Kong. Oh yeah they have problems. But they did not sound like particularly Jewish problems so much as the difficulties and obstacles one faces in pretty much any place of congregational ministry. Not a few conservative evangelical Christian pastors can identify with what Stan described. Problems with lay leadership. With paid staff. With a lack of volunteers (although that is improving thanks largely to Martha). And apparently more friction between different Jewish groups (orthodox conservative and liberal) than one finds in the United States. Stan said the situation is about 10 years behind what it is here.
Security was pretty intense. Just to visit United Jewish Community I had to submit my name and passport information to their head of security ahead of time. When I arrived at the unmarked door I was asked who I was. “Ah yes – we’re expecting you go on in”. And we passed through metal detectors and past guards on our way to the kosher dining room.
Not a happy time for Jewish people right now.
