Originally published in The Window, October 10 2006

Holy Play (or) S-, part I
Richard M. Wright

(The S- is going somewhere. Trust me.)

There is a theme – a theological theme that requires a change in how we live – that has been impressing itself upon my soul/awareness. Play.

Three days in Atlanta for the (apparently well known) Catalyst Conference. The world’s largest pillow fight involving thousands at the Gwinnett Arena on Friday morning. The dodge-ball national championship team – comprised entirely of “youth pastors”, why are we not surprised? – shows up… a dozen from the audience throw official dodge-balls at them which they dodge or catch-and-return-with-force then quickly (d)evolves into thousands throwing their red rubber balls at these masters of a play-ground sport who manage to dodge-or-catch-and-return not a few amidst the red maelstrom.

Yeah the conference was inspiring, informative, challenging and all. But it was also fun.

Which brings me to one of the speakers: Kevil Carroll of Rules of the Red Rubber Ball fame. Worked for years as a “creative catalyst” at Nike.

One of his central points was adults do not play enough. Without play… imagination and creativity shrivel. And perhaps the reverse is also true? That play can be a holy activity. And one that can fuel creativity and imagination and by extension our ability to perform… succeed… innovate… problem-solve… fulfill our mission as individuals and as a church family.

I first learned this lesson from a Baptist campus minister at Cornell University by the name of Armetta Fields. (Interesting first name.) She thought Cornell students were too serious, studious, and stress out. (Oh and arrogant.) So she made us play once or twice a semester.

Crayons and coloring books at Thursday evening “Bible study/prayer” meeting. Taking us to a nearby vocational school at night to spend a couple hours on the playground. Swings and slides and death-by-monkey-bars.

More than therapy but fulfilling (in part) a divine commandment. Care to guess what letter it starts with?

East Shanghai Church

One of the three goals for my journey through China back in May-June was to observe directly what is happening with the Christian church in the People’s Republic of China. I visited both registered churches and house churches. And had long conversations with representatives of both. Also spent an evening with a classmate from graduate school who teaches in Beijing and provides to the Chinese government information and advice on religious affairs.

One of my conversations was with an intelligent and accomplished young man who is active in one of the largest house churches in Beijing. His summary of the situation? Complicated. Changing. But encouraging.

From the Church of England newspaper:

The Chinese government has announced plans to “guide” Protestant Christians worshiping at unregistered “house churches” towards worshiping in the state approved China Christian Council/Three Self Patriotic Movement.

In its agenda for the coming year published on Jan 24, China’s State Administration for Religious Affairs (SARA) said bringing all Protestants into the fold of the CCC/TSPM would help the activities of Protestant churches proceed in a normal and orderly way. However, details of how this guiding would take place have not been revealed, the Peking-based People’s Daily reported.

SARA stated it would also work to “educate” China’s Catholics on the principle of self-governance in church affairs, “guiding” Catholic churches in China to independently select and consecrate bishops, rather than defer to the Vatican.

The agenda said the SARA will strengthen regulation of foreign nationals’ group religious activities in China and resist foreign infiltration under the pretext of religion.

This is not encouraging. And represents a movement in the opposite direction from what some Chinese Christians were beginning to observe.

Could the situation in China be worse? Yes. China is not North Korea or Afghanistan or Saudi Arabia or a host of other nations where it is more difficult and/or dangerous to be a Christian. But also it could be much better. My impression is that the Chinese government allows freedom of religion so long as it does not challenge the authority and power of the Chinese government or threaten what it regards as the stability of Chinese society.

With regard to “foreign nationals’ group religious activities” personally I prefer to conduct Christian missionary work openly and legally. But will not criticize or judge Christians who choose to work secretly or under the pretext of being in China for some other purpose. There may come a time in my life when I live and work in China. And engage in missionary work. And not openly or with the approval of the government. But who knows?

Although in a way one can understand where the Chinese government is coming from – Opium Wars anyone? – the chief problem with their current policy is that they presume to define the limits and parameters of what is acceptable/permissible Christian teaching and practice. One doubts a pastor/priest/preacher serving at a registered church could ever say that elective/forced abortion is bad public policy. Just to pick an example. As one Christian sister said to me the current situation  places Chinese Christians in the position of sometimes having to obey the government rather than God.

H/T Midwest Conservative Journal via Opinionated Catholic

Update:

Well obviously it helps to see the original article in China Daily. Here is link to website of State Administration of Religious Affairs but it is in Mandarin Chinese.

Sorry about no posts for last couple weeks. Been busy and just got back from much needed holiday with family at Gulf Shores Alabama. Slept a lot. Spent a lot. Relaxed a lot.

In January 1999 I was part of a group from Baptist Theological Seminary in Richmond that traveled to the state of Kerala in India for three weeks. We visited with several different religious groups – some Christian and some not. One of our favorite visits was to the Roman Catholic seminary(?) in Kottayam.

Palm sewed back, the college teacher was getting “mentally prepared” to rejoin when the sack order came.

The Catholic management at Newman College in Kottayam today fired lecturer T.J. Joseph, whose palm was chopped off by religious fundamentalists for an allegedly derogatory reference to the Prophet in a question paper.

I have so far avoided discussing Islam – radical or otherwise – on this website. But the reference to Kottayam got my attention.

We still do not know what the actual test question was. I am troubled that the college would make decisions based on what the “Muslim community” wants. They ambush the man and his sister cut off his palm with a sword – and the victim is punished with suspension then loss of job.

H/T American Thinker.

Holy Dormition Church in Beijing

The third goal for my journey through China was to understand better the state of the Christian church in China. Part of that goal was to find Orthodox Christians.

Kallistos Ware in his book The Orthodox Way provides a list of how many Orthodox Christians there are in different nations of the world. His entry for China is curious.

10,000-30,000(?)

Well that is strange. Why do we not know with any certainty? I asked the priest at St Matthew the Apostle Orthodox Church here in Baton Rouge about this. Interestingly he also has wondered about this figure. Why the question mark? He did not have any information about Orthodox Christians in China and could not offer any leads.

From “Church of China” at OrthodoxWiki:

Several Orthodox congregations, mainly of elderly individuals, continue to meet in Beijing and northeast China (including Heilongjiang), with, apparently, the tacit consent of the government. As of 2005 there was one priest; however, a number of Chinese nationals are currently studying in Orthodox seminaries in Russia, with the intent of returning to China to serve in priestly ministry.

Although there were not many Orthodox Christians in China to begin with the Cultural Revolution “destroyed the young Chinese Orthodox Church almost totally”.

On several occasions I asked my Chinese Christian friends about this. None of them had any knowledge of Orthodox Christian churches in Beijing. However they did report that they knew of some that were related to people of Russian descent particularly in northern China such as in Heilongjiang. It was not clear if they meant these are Russian people living in China or Chinese citizens with Russian ancestry.

The bottom line is this. I could not find or meet any Orthodox Christians during my journey through China. And my Chinese Christian friends did not seem to know much if anything either.

Let me cut to the chase. This surprises me. Why? Because I think Orthodox Christianity might be well suited to the Chinese people and their culture.

Before I elaborate yes that is a problematic statement. Because it implies that Orthodox Christianity fits some cultures better than others.

Let me mention a few reasons I think this.

• Importance of tradition in Chinese culture ~ tradition in Orthodox Christianity.
• Importance of ancestors ~ (similar to although not the same as) reverence for the saints.
• One of the difficulties that Christianity faces in China is the perception that it is “Western”. Orthodox Christianity is not Western. This does not entirely solve the problem because the Chinese government would still be concerned about the extent to which other nations – especially Russia – might attempt to influence China through Orthodoxy.
• An important principle of Orthodox missiology is to form local churches that reflect the local people and their culture.
• An important principle of Orthodox theology is the unity of heaven and earth – that we live in a “one story universe”. When I brought up this idea my Chinese friends in Shanghai said Chinese tradition holds to the same view. Western Christianity tends to emphasize more of a break(?) between heaven and earth.

These are preliminary thoughts that need to be developed more. But often during my journey through China I thought “the more I understand Chinese people and Chinese culture the more it seems that Orthodox Christianity should be thriving here”.

Addendum:

Well shucks. Turns out I was in Beijing when special celebrations took place at Holy Dormitian Church of Beijing on May 18 2010. Unfortunately I did not come across the Orthodoxy in China website until after returning to the United States. So one can find Orthodox Christians in Beijing and other cities. But most often in association with the Russian embassy.

Xi'an from top of Wild Goose Pagoda - note construction along horizon

This will be short.

It was moderately big news last week when China overtook Japan to become the number two largest economy in the world. The United States is still number one although it is predicted that within ten years China will overtake us as well.

One of the things that astounded me in China is the amount of construction. Everywhere you go roads being built. Enormous office buildings and/or apartment/condominium buildings rising everywhere. The horizon a forest of new buildings growing like bamboo.

Yes the Chinese economy is humming along and growing like crazy. And there are some things we can learn from them as we slog through the mire of our own economic almost depression. But underneath the Chinese economic landscape is a ticking time bomb.

Real estate.

Fueled largely by speculation. People buying properties for no other reason that to own property that they will sale at a later date for an enormous profit. The family that met me when I first left the airport their apartment – which they bought a few years ago for about $300,000(?) is now worth more than $1 million. Several times people in China mentioned to me their great concern about the red hot real estate market. Soon no one but the rich will be able to afford their own home. In the larger cities that is.

Forbes has an interesting article on this problem. One in four city apartments are unoccupied – which means they are being held by real estate speculators. The government is in a “darned if we let this continue and darned if we try to control it” dilemma. During my journey through China I read articles in China Daily about steps the government is taking to control the  situation. But it may be too late.

Chinese leaders, in the months ahead, have an impossible task. They must keep powerful property developers happy, not alienate hundreds of millions of Chinese who think they should be able to own their homes, and somehow repeal the law of supply and demand.

This leads me also to reflect upon the situation in the United States. Why does it seem that you cannot own your own home unless (a) you are a highly paid professional and/or (b) both spouses work? There are three major expenses that for decades have been rising faster than inflation: (1) housing (2) health care (3) higher education. To what extent was #1 fueled by speculators?

Cities.

Several times this website has addressed the significant divide between city and country. I am convinced it is right now the single most important dividing line in both American society and Chinese society. Although perhaps for different reasons. In American society the urban-rural divide manifests itself largely as social-cultural-political differences. In Chinese society that is still true – but the differences are more in terms of economic and technological development. In America one generally encounters a high – sometimes higher – standard of living away from the cities. My mother lives on a 150 acre farm in upstate New York. She lives in a nice energy efficient house. She has electricity and running water and so on. She drives on paved roads in generally good condition. About the only thing she does not have is fast internet access.

In China as one moves away from the cities the level of development drops significantly. It is like being in a Third World nation. Dirt roads. Much lower levels of income. Simple homes made of brick. No running water. And so on. I once proofread a doctoral dissertation that studied different middle schools in China. I was surprised by her description of the rural schools. No heat – except maybe a coal/wood burning stove. No running water. Lack of playground equipment. Lack of educational materials. And so on.

One of the things that impressed me about cities in China is the extent to which they are centers of life culture and activity. They are generally very safe. You can walk the streets at night. City parks are full of people – from babies to retirees. People doing things together. Folk dancing. Music and singing. Sports. Games. In Beijing on the way back to my hotel from the Forestry Institute we stopped at a city park so my friend X_ M_ could show me where she goes one to two times every week to dance. Ballroom dancing. In a city park. At night. It was delightful.

I thought of American cities. And how in many ways they can be centers of violence and despair. Not just poverty. China has poor people too. But in too many American cities we have “ghettos” and generational poverty. Gangs and “street pirates”. People who are poor and less educated – which is one thing – but moreover seem completely unable to extricate themselves from their situation.

How and why did this happen?

This is not about “race” although in America clearly there is a racial dimension to this issue. It is much more about social and economic policy. About what we have attempted to do in the name of helping the urban poor. And about what appear to be the disastrous results of such policies.

I do not have all the answers – concerning how and why this came about nor concerning what we can do to repair the generational damage that has been done. What I very much do not understand is how “urban” became a euphemism for “African-American”. And by extension how “ghetto/gangster” became what some regard as the authentic “African-American identity/experience”.

One exceptional place to begin exploring the questions is “Politics, Policy, Pathology and Hope Within The Black Community”. The point is not simply that this is a “conservative blogger who happens to be black”. But rather this is someone who asks the hard questions – and has even come up with some answers – about the African-American community especially in urban settings. Three themes in particular: (1) failure to develop organic competency (2) failure to manage resources (3) failure to hold leaders accountable when they fail to do these things. Everyone who visits “Live the Trinity” needs to visit and bookmark “Within the Black Community”.

Other websites that address this issue are “Conservative Black Woman” and (had trouble locating the other one). Remember – this is not about “race”. This is about the suffering and struggle of the urban poor – who so often are African-American.

That is what my journey through China prompted. Why are Chinese cities – for the most part – places where people want to live and work? centers of life and culture? And why are some American cities – at least large portions thereof – places that we avoid if possible? centers of violence and despair?

Okay that was Christianity. What about religion in general?

During my long visit with Chinese Christians in the house church in Beijing they expressed concern that:

• the Chinese government is actively promoting/supporting Buddhism and even Islam
• some people want Buddhism to become the official religion of China – because Christianity is perceived as Western even American whereas Buddhism is somehow Asian

I was skeptical of this at first. In most parts of China I did not see strong evidence that the Chinese government actively promotes/supports any particular religion. But there were a couple places along my journey where I saw some things that indicated their concerns were well founded.

Shaanxi province was by far the most troubling. Two words: Famen Si (or Temple).

Inside entrance complex of Famen Temple - note stupa in distance

Famen Temple is an important Buddhist site. Where archeologists discovered a finger bone that supposedly belonged to the Sakyamuni Buddha. (Actually there were several finger bones. The idea being that if thieves tried to steal the sacred relic they would never be sure if they had the original finger bone or a copy.) There is a temple and surrounding monastery along with a small museum. Well and fine.

Except that a couple years ago the Chinese government built a new complex that partly surrounds and partly replaces the original temple complex. Absolutely colossal. More than 150 acres. With an immense Namaste Dagoba stupa which is the new resting place for the finger bone. (Most of the time one can see a copy. The real finger bone in its crystal enclosure is on a special platform that is raised and lowered two times each day.) And a gate/entrance complex that is two kilometers from the stupa and original temple/monastery.

Namaste stupa - the colossal "hands" are purely decorative

The cost of the new complex must have been staggering. According to my Chinese friends some of the money actually came from Buddhist Society of China. But most came from the Chinese government.

From my journal:

It is difficult to describe just how immense and expensive and utterly appalling this complex is. Used to be just the old temple and museum. Now a gigantic complex of buildings complete with 2 kilometer walk to the new temple. Very expensive admission price [something like 150 RNB aka yuan - although an electronic sign seemed to indicate that people who have official Buddhist religion cards(?) can enter for free]. Guides offer to show us around for 400Y which is an princely sum. Buy incense! Buy! The whole thing reeks.

Z_ stays outside while Y_ and I forgo the the car ride – for a fee of course – and walk the entire distance. There is a cheap insincerity to all the statues and inscriptions along the way. This is what happens when the government decides to involve itself in religion! Some of the funds came from the Buddhist Society. But most came from the Chinese government. They wanted to build something truly grand in order to show off such an important historical site.

Nonsense. They wanted to make a killing.

Cheesy music warbles along the way. “Be peaceful and happy”. Perhaps what the Chinese government wants the people to hear? Have enough to eat. Be calm. So that we can remain utterly and completely in control.

Apparently the old temple contained a finger bone of the (a?) Buddha (Sakyamuni who I guess is a primary Buddhist saint?). But the Chinese government felt it necessary to construct this ginormous sprawling complex and move the finger bone to a gigantic new modern temple. It is in some sort of crystal enshrined podium(?) that is raised and lowered at various times during the day. You can pay 10Y – or was that 100Y? – to have a little lamp remain lit constantly in the temple. Police and military guards everywhere. Leave an offering! Put some money in the box! Buy a souvenir! Oh and be happy. Reminds me a little of the early George Lucas film “THX 1138”.

We head down and to the old temple and museum area. Into pagoda and downstairs. Pay the monk to strike a bell while you pray. Gong. Gong. No pictures! This is a holy place! Yeah right.

The attached museum area is genuinely interesting. Artifacts found in – taken from? – the original temple. Including the boxes-within-boxes which housed the finger bone. Apparently there were several finger bones – so that if thieves took one they would not know if it was the true original or a duplicate. The head of the monastery is also a member of the People’s Committee(?) – so it is also a highly political position. Follow the teachings of the Buddha. And be a good obedient citizen of the People’s Republic of China. [emphasis added]

Use public funds to promote Buddhism. Charge exorbitant fees to get in. The head of the “religious” site is a politician.

Billboard at back exit focusing on head of monastery

In Shanxi province (which is to the east of Shaanxi province and I now know the difference between the two) I visited a few old Buddhist temples. Yes there were admission fees. And yes they were still used as temples. One would see monks as well as ordinary Chinese people come and burn incense and pray and leave offerings.

(I would add that a curious feature of many Buddhist temples is that there is also the presence of Chinese traditional religion. Statues and shrines to the earth god or goddess of mercy. These are not just of historical interest. Some Chinese people come and pray for particular concerns. And return to give a thanks offering if those prayers are answered.)

This points out a dilemma that all governments face. How do you deal with historical sites that are also religious sites? This question came up during a mildly heated discussion with Chinese friends in Shanghai (who argued that the Chinese government does not support or favor any particular religion). I appreciate that the government has an interest in preserving historical sites that also happen to be religious sites. When they do so – and charge admission fees – can one fairly criticize them of promoting religion? One might argue that if those historical sites are being used today then the faith community that prays/worships there should be responsible. How do you balance public/historical interest with particular/religious interest?

But – and this is how I countered my friends in Shanghai – surely Famen Temple goes too far. This is not simply “okay let’s protect the old temple and charge a modest admission fee”. This is “let’s use vast amounts of public money to build an unnecessarily huge monument to Buddhism – complete with new statues and a new temple”. The political role of the head of the monastery cannot be overlooked. He is not a simple Buddhist monk. He is a politician.

I could also mention the Gwanlin temple/complex outside Guangzhou. Although it was not clear to me how much government support (as opposed to private/religious support) was involved.

Gwanlin Pavilion outside Guangzhou

It might sound like I am picking on Buddhism. I am not. The historical/religious site problem applies to old churches and cathedrals. And I would like to think if the United States government ever did a Christian version of Famen Temple that American Christians of good will would be deeply troubled.

(Monumental displays of the Ten Commandments in public buildings anyone? Incoming!)

I was not able to get a good sense of religious freedom for Muslims. In most cities one can easily find restaurants that specifically advertise halal food and where one will see both Chinese and foreign Muslims come to eat.

I did not see much in the way of Taoism – until I visited Lao Mountain outside Qingdao. During our two hour hike through the park (which was beautiful and genuinely moving) twice we came across Taoist temples. Very different from the many Buddhist temples. No hoards of women trying to sell incense sticks or souvenirs. No extra admission fees.

Entrance to Taoist temple in Lao Mountain park

Just simple dignified shrines. At the second shrine there were Taoist monks. None of whom tried to sell us anything. They were just… there. I was impressed by the simplicity and apparent honesty. One can argue that because these shrines/temples are part of a national park they implicitly/indirectly receive government support. Maybe. But (a) did they choose to be located inside a national park? and (b) no one asked for any money at these sites.

By the way – there are some who would argue Taoism is not a religion so much as a philosophy. For what it is worth both sites had statues of deities to which people pray.

While in Shaanxi province I heard about a group of Latter Day Saints who meet in Xi’an. Although part of me does not want to see Mormonism gain a foothold in China I have to be fair. If I believe in religious freedom for Christians then I must support religious freedom for everyone else.

Let’s talk about Hong Kong

That is the People’s Republic of China. Where there seems to be a high degree of religious freedom within certain limits. But also troubling examples of government involvement in particular religions – especially in Buddhism.

Hong Kong is radically different. In a nutshell Hong Kong is where religious groups fled after the Communist Revolution and during the Cultural Revolution of the 1960s. In many ways Hong Kong still preserves more traditional-conservative expressions of many religions. Hong Kong is where many Chinese Christians go to receive seminary training if they are not able to study in the United States.

I happened to visit the Jewish community during my one night stay. Rabbi Stan Zamek of United Jewish Congregation used to serve as the rabbi of Beth Shalom Synagogue here in Baton Rouge. I had the pleasure of participating in their Friday night Shabbat service. Followed by kosher dinner in the Jewish Community Building. And then a couple hours delightful conversation with Stan and his wife Martha who is also a rabbi.

I asked Stan if there are particular problems facing the Jewish community in Hong Kong. Oh yeah they have problems. But they did not sound like particularly Jewish problems so much as the difficulties and obstacles one faces in pretty much any place of congregational ministry. Not a few conservative evangelical Christian pastors can identify with what Stan described. Problems with lay leadership. With paid staff. With a lack of volunteers (although that is improving thanks largely to Martha). And apparently more friction between different Jewish groups (orthodox conservative and liberal) than one finds in the United States. Stan said the situation is about 10 years behind what it is here.

Security was pretty intense. Just to visit United Jewish Community I had to submit my name and passport information to their head of security ahead of time. When I arrived at the unmarked door I was asked who I was. “Ah yes – we’re expecting you go on in”. And we passed through metal detectors and past guards on our way to the kosher dining room.

Not a happy time for Jewish people right now.

East Shanghai Church

Complicated. Changing. Encouraging.

Those three words encapsulate what Chinese Christians shared with me concerning religious freedom and the state of the Christian church in China.

The third of my three goals for the trip through China was to observe first hand just what is going on in China with religious freedom in general and the Christian movement in particular. For years I have not been able to get a clear and consistent picture. On the one hand I hear horror stories about Christians being persecuted. About the underground church. Secret missionaries. But on the other hand most Chinese people who participate in Church of the Nations never mention any of this. As if being a Christian is not a big deal. Unless one is a member of the Communist Party and/or works for the government or a university. And then one has to keep a low profile. There have been several Chinese people over the last eleven years who have said “I would like to become a Christian but I cannot because of my work and position back home”. A few have been baptized secretly – no non-Christian internationals told or invited.

So which is it? Is it difficult to be a Christian in China or not? And which narrative is more accurate? The “suffering persecuted church” narrative? Or the “people can be Christians and churches can minister openly” narrative?

Let’s start with the raw data. What did I see and do?

I visited three registered churches – Three Self Patriotic Movement churches that cooperate with the Chinese government. (1) Haidian Church in Beijing. (2) A registered church in Yangling. And (3) East Shanghai Church. Oh and I should add (4) a registered church in Nanning.

I also visited or talked at length with (people in) three family churches – churches which are not registered with the Chinese government. (1′) That meets in a large apartment in north Beijing. (2′) That meets in a small apartment in north Beijing. (3′) That meets in rented space at a television studio in Beijing.

1. Haidian Church in Beijing

Haidian Church meets in a huge extremely modern building – almost does not look like a “church” and yes that is a mild criticism. They have several worship services to accommodate 3000+ members. We arrived half way through a Chinese service and tried one of the overflow rooms (where people watch and participate by video feed from the main sanctuary). There was no room but my friend said “this is a pastor from America who has come to visit” and they found us a couple spots. Those who came represented a good cross section of Chinese society but especially young people and university students.

We stayed also for the English language service which is led partly by Chinese and partly by English speaking foreigners. My classmate C_ Y_ who teaches at Peking University said this is quite unusual and suggests the pastor is both clever and careful. He is able to work with the Chinese government so effectively that Haidian Church is able to do things that normally the government would not permit.  About half the congregation was Chinese (especially young and university people) and the other half foreigners (mostly Americans). The style of worship was definitely “contemporary” and I do not mean emergent – about 10-20 years behind what one normally sees among evangelical churches in the United States. The sermon was given by a Chinese woman who speaks exceptional English. It was excellent and focused on obedience to the commandments of God.

There are several registered churches in Beijing. This sounds great. But do the math. You have several churches each of which includes maybe 3000-7000 people. In a city of 20 million. Clearly the vast majority of Beijing residents do not have ready access to a church that worships and ministers openly. What the Chinese government allows barely scratches the surface of what the Chinese people need.

Every registered church in China also functions as a bookstore. This is where Chinese people can purchase Bibles and other basic Christian literature.

I should note my Chinese friend (who is a professor at a university) did not entirely care for Haidian Church. Her concern is that the church is so large that people can come and go without ever truly being part of the life of this church family. Whereas Church of the Nations is small enough that visitors are always noticed and welcomed. Relationships and friendships form. There is community. But this is not really a comment on registered churches – her concerns would apply to any large church in the United States. I countered that Haidian Church does offer Bible study and discipleship groups – you can choose to become involved and connected.

(1′) House church in north Beijing.

That afternoon a good friend took me to visit a house church in north Beijing. It meets in a rented apartment – with a large living room that functions as a sanctuary and holds maybe 100 people. I met and talked for 2 hours with several members of this church. Two attend a seminary in Hong Kong. One a recent convert. Plus a few others. Some spoke English.

What they tell me is that even this unregistered church can worship and minister openly. Most of the time. For the most part. There are times and circumstances when the Chinese government will give them some difficulty. Such as during the Beijing 2008 Olympic games the government said “this church is too big – you need to divide and meet in smaller groups”. And the church cannot engage in activities that are too public – such as an evangelistic event in a public park.

They were mildly critical of registered churches. Their concerns are that because registered churches must cooperate with the government there are inevitable compromises. Also there is a lack of emphasis on obedience. And accountability is almost non-existent. When I told them about the sermon that morning by Cathy Zhang at Haidian Church they were surprised and somewhat encouraged.

They did express some specific concerns about religious freedom in China. First that the Chinese government appears to be choosing sides – supporting Buddhism and even Islam. But not Christianity even though there are many more Christians than there are Buddhists or Muslims. Second that there are some Chinese who argue that Buddhism should be declared the official religion in China. Why Buddhism? Because Christianity is perceived by some as Western even American. Whereas Buddhism is not. At the time I wondered if these Chinese Christian friends were exaggerating – but later (especially in Shanxi province) I could see what they were talking about.

I asked “what message can I bring back to American Christians for you? what can we do to help you?” they mentioned a few things. Number one was the need for more and better training. There is a lack of good theological and pastoral training in China. They would like to be able to attend strong seminaries in other countries such as the United States. But that takes money. If American Christians want to help Chinese Christians receive strong training we need to work harder at providing good scholarships and financial support. And of course they asked for prayer.

Now my good friend who attended Louisiana State University is not herself a member of this house church. That evening I had dinner with her and her family at their small two bedroom apartment. An American who teaches in China joined us. He has lived in China for several years and grew up in a missionary family that served primarily in Japan. He told me quite plainly “there is no underground church in China. It’s not underground. It’s completely open”. And that there is no need to smuggle Bibles into China. People can buy Bibles openly in China and there are plenty being published to meet the need. The only reason some American pastors talk about smuggling Bibles is because they want to “play at being James Bond”. He himself is fairly active in a Three Self church in Beijing. I have seen shows on television about American Christians visiting truly underground churches – traveling in vans with curtains drawn so no one can see the Westerners within and churches that meet in caves or basements outside of town with people standing guard outside. But this American argued that such shows do not reflect the current situation.

(2) Yangling Church

Very different from the big modern expensive building full of educated people in Beijing. Not far from Northwestern A and F University. But a more humble and simple church building. Wooden benches. The restrooms are basically concrete latrines. Mostly local people and farmers. Many do not have more than a middle school education. The female pastor speaks in a strong local dialect. And yet I enjoyed this worship gathering most of all. It seemed more honest.

My friends in Yangling – a university town about one hour from Xi’an – tell me that the university administration strongly and actively discourages people from participating in this local church. Indeed they warn visiting scholars against having anything to do with Christian churches when they are in the United States. Although I do see some university students and faculty.

The order of worship is interesting. At all three Three Self churches I visit the first half hour is practicing songs. There is little singing during the worship service proper. Although they sing the Apostles’ Creed. They – and I saw this in house churches – read at least one Psalm responsively (men and women alternating). The choir at Yangling Church presented a beautiful and moving rendition of Psalm 23 in song. And apparently we were there on one of two testimony Sundays. No sermon – just people going forward and sharing testimonies. Several people took pictures of videotaped parts of the worship gathering. No one seemed to mind.

(3) East Shanghai Church

East Shanghai Church - exterior

East Shanghai Church is in many ways the closest to a modern-traditional American Protestant church. Beautiful old building in excellent condition. Very well organized with plenty of ushers to help you out. Lists of rules for how to behave during worship – such as no going to the bathroom during the sermon! Traditional wooden pews in good repair. They even provided me a Chinese-English hymnal which is uber cool because now I can sing along with everyone else.

The sermon is good but mind crushingly long. After about 45 minutes I suggest we get going. Apparently she was almost done because the service ends a few minutes after we leave. Super long sermons are quite normal in China.

The friend who took me is also a university professor. She does not normally attend church. She tells me she cannot partly because of her job but mostly because of her husband who is a police officer. He cannot even be seen with me a foreigner. Exactly what kind of police work? Her husband told her “it’s better if you don’t know”. The Shanghai Expo is keeping him extraordinarily busy – maybe three days off in the last few months. My guess is he is the Chinese equivalent of a domestic security agent. Again – it seems that being a Christian is not a problem for ordinary Chinese people. But it is a problem for people in certain positions.

(4) Chonghe Church in Nanning

Apparently one of my friends in Nanning got in touch with a local church – they wanted me to come by and visit. Chonghe Church was crammed into a multi-story building on a narrow street in downtown Nanning. In many ways like a modern Baptist church in America. The sanctuary is relatively small but has a baptistry (beneath the platform – so baptism by immersion), high end sound system, projector and screen, band instruments (such as guitars and drums), and equipment so that people in overflow rooms can watch the live video feed. Part of the building is for their ministry that provides housing for elderly widows who have no children of their own to care for them.

From my journal:

Several staff. Three services with around 2000 members. Li Ping shows us around. Now head to restaurant. There we meet with two friends(?) of X_ who work for the government. Plus three people from Chonghe Church. As well as Z_. Most people do not speak English so most of the conservation revolves around me in Chinese. The two groups of other people have never met each other so it is interesting to see how government workers interact with Chinese Christians. Does not seem to be a problem. Li Ping and Xile Joy are very open and share literature with Peng and Wang.

Toward the end of dinner I ask what the Chinese Christians would like me to pass on to brothers and sisters in America. Please pray. Pray for economic development in Guangxi – one of the less developed provinces in China. For the young people. For men – most Chinese Christians are women. For Christian married couples – that they can be an example to other Chinese. For people in the government.

(2′) Small house church in Beijing

During my last Sunday in China I visit the small house church that meets in my friend’s two bedroom apartment. By small I mean six people. X_ has been studying piano. There are three other people besides her family. We sing several songs. There is prayer and Scripture reading. Her husband L_ alternates preaching with W_ who picks me up and drives me to the apartment. The sermon is a theological exposition of the first sentence of the Apostles’ Creed: I believe in God the Father Almighty maker of heaven and earth. It is one and a half hours long. Ouch. Even if you take into account Chinese and English translation still it would have been nearly an hour. After we finish I am asked to lead in the celebration of Communion. Their one year old son D_ participates because he has been baptized. Many house churches are strongly interested in Reformed theology. X_ and L_ have been studying Calvin’s Institutes of the Christian Religion in Chinese translation.

(3′) Large family church in Beijing

I have been put in touch with S_ Church via a professor at Louisiana State University who keeps in close touch with a young man active in this church. Two years ago they bought property for 10 million yuan. But the real estate company has not allowed them to take possession – even though this costs them a substantial daily fine. Apparently the Chinese government is involved and is blocking this large house church of 1000+ from having their own property because of the significant legal implications.

If you let an unregistered church buy property – you cross a mighty big legal line.

So while the property is on hold they rent space at a government television studio. Which is interesting. My friends X_ and L_ come along because they have always wanted to see S_ Church and meet some of its leaders.

From my journal:

There is a gentleman standing outside. Yes? Are we looking for a place to eat? No we are here for the church. Ah then – and he tells us where to go. Apparently if we are not looking for S_ church he would have been less helpful.

S_ Church meets in the bottom floor of a television studio – with a restaurant right next door in the same building. X_ H_ finds us and we head into the worship space. The space and the service in many ways are familiar. Except for the Chinese language the order and style of worship are similar to independent/evangelical traditional/contemporary. Half of the songs are traditional translated into Chinese. The other half are recognizable “contemporary” – the term is problematic – worship songs also translated into Chinese. There are prayers. The choir sings at least once. The people recite a Psalm together – women and men alternating each verse. Women lead the worship service. There is a central screen and a projector which shows words. There is a time of open/vocal prayer where everyone stands and prays out loud at the same time – have seen this before.

Then the pastor(? later confirmed to be the pastor) comes out. Soft spoken man who appears to speak simply. Apparently this is the sermon. I ask X_ H_ if this is a good time to step out and have a chance to talk. I cannot stay for another two hour service all in Chinese.

X_ H_ is an engaging and outstanding young(?) man who speaks impeccable English with an educated British accent. xxx xxx The conversation that follows is exceptional. Some of what he shares is revelatory. Some confirms impressions/observations so far about religion and Christianity in China.

Perhaps in a separate document will write up what I can about the conversation. In a nutshell the situation in China is (1) complex (2) changing rapidly – he knows 25 people in his former place of work have become Christians in just the past three months and (3) generally encouraging. The government seems to be saying “we are going to grant you more freedom – but you need to wait a little bit”. He tells me it would have been no problem for me to carry and give out my church business card. Now that is remarkable and not what American pastors in Baton Rouge were telling me. Again – do we exaggerate the situation? So far that has been the case. The church in China is not entirely free. But neither – at least according to what I see and hear – does the situation match some of the horror stories one hears in the United States. Am I missing something?

He says we focus too much on the issue of who is in power rather than specific details and situations.

What can we do? What help does the Chinese church need?

• Prayer

• Training – a shortage of spiritual/theological knowledge among pastors/leaders (he quickly emphasizes that by knowledge he means faithful Christian knowledge)

• Media – by which he means journalists and writers who will (a) produce materials (devotional/spiritual literature, how to live the Christian life, and so on) and (b) promote reading of those materials. This is when X_ expresses her strong interest – she has written articles and her husband is a journalist. One could add publishing/promoting Chinese translations of Christian literature as well. One of the elders is working on Institutes of the Christian Religion by John Calvin. Dude. But is there not already one?

Concluding thoughts

So is there religious freedom in China or not? In a nutshell what I found was a high amount of freedom for Christians – so long as they did not bump into what I call the “ceiling”. The government does become much more restrictive during certain sensitive times. Shaowang Church was meeting in a public park(!) – and streaming their worship services on the internet! – until President Obama came for a visit. Then the government said “you need to get out of here” – hence the television studio.

So what to make of the “horror stories”? What to make of a June 04 2010 article by Baptist Press?

Persecution of Christians in China is still a widespread problem and an ignored topic in the secular media, said Bob Fu, president of ChinaAid, in an interview with Baptist Press.

Fu knows about persecution firsthand. He suffered for his faith in his homeland before he and his wife Heidi fled to the United States in 1997. A leader of the student democracy movement that was squelched by the Tiananmen Square massacre in 1989, he became a Christian the same year. In 1996, secret police discovered the Bible school he and Heidi founded and imprisoned both of them. After their release and further persecution, they escaped through Hong Kong.

Fu started ChinaAid (www.chinaaid.org) in 2002 to bring international attention to China’s repression of unregistered churches and their members.

I am unwilling to question what Fu states. Perhaps the situation is different the farther one gets from the big cities. Or in certain less developed provinces. Perhaps what Fu describes is entirely accurate but somewhat out of date. It is difficult to match this article with what I saw and heard during my journey through China.

Two things from my journey through China.

One of my friends teaches Chinese to foreign students at Northwestern A and F University in Yangling (an hour from Xi’an), Shaanxi province. Apparently the African Student Association organized a big party/cultural celebration. She was invited and took me along. I was looking forward to it partly because my ministry is with foreign academics. For once the Chinese were not the foreign guests but rather the hosts.

There are something like 150(?) foreign graduate students at this predominantly agricultural university in northwest China. Nearly all of them are from Asia or Africa. They came from several different nations in each continent. There were especially large numbers of students from three nations: Pakistan and Cameroon and Egypt.

It is interesting to compare the situation at Louisiana State University and Southern University in Baton Rouge to the situation at Northwestern A and F University. Here in Baton Rouge most of these graduate students would not have to learn English – although they would still have to take and pass English language exams. But they have chosen to study in China where they must spend at least one year learning to speak and even read(!) Chinese before they can begin their graduate study.

That tells you something about how people in other nations view the quality of education in China. The United States is not the only place bright talented people in other nations consider for advanced degrees. For many Africans China – even with its very different language and culture – is an attractive choice.

Hold that thought for a moment.

A few times during my journey I had a chance to catch up on Chinese news. I noticed several articles in China Daily – and yes I am aware it is to some extent a propaganda organ of the Chinese government – that discussed trade relations with Africa. Americans need to realize that the United States is not the only big kid in the global neighborhood. China increasingly is forming strong relationships with other nations. This is especially true in Africa.

One of the articles in China Daily explained that African nations appreciate working with China on trade and development because China understands African priorities and interests more than Western nations such as the United States. American companies emphasize resources – we are interested in oil metal wood and so on. But China emphasizes agriculture and infrastructure – which is exactly what African nations care about the most. They feel that the Chinese are more sensitive to what Africans consider most important. “Help us feed our people. Help us develop our nations. And then we can talk about harvesting all those wonderful resources that the Americans want so much”.

I started wondering “is America missing out on opportunities in Africa – opportunities for trade and business? because we are not listening closely enough to their needs and concerns? Or is this just Chinese propaganda?”

This weekend I talked with our friend from Kenya – who also did most of the preaching for Church of the Nations while I was on leave. His is finishing a PhD in international development at Southern University. He follows politics very closely and would probably know the situation.

He confirmed my impression and concern. Oh yes – Africa is forming very strong ties to China. In fact African nations look to China more than to the United States. China is Kenya’s number one trade partner. China is helping Kenya build roads and highways. And most goods in Kenyan shops and stores are from Chinese companies.

And recently? Has there been any changes with the Obama Administration?

No. In fact President Obama has done very little with regard to Africa besides a trip to Ghana. My Kenyan friend pointed out that many people seem unaware how much President Bush did for Africa – huge amounts of money to fight diseases such as malaria and AIDS. (In President Obama’s defense he probably needs to focus more on domestic crises – at least for a while.) Recently President Obama sent Vice-President Biden to Kenya to pressure the Kenyan government to pass a new constitution. Even to say that America must “approve” the politicians involved in producing the new constitution.

This does not sit well at all with the Kenyan government or people. Kenya is predominantly Christian. And most of those Kenyan Christians are strongly opposed to this new constitution because of (1) its inclusion/recognition of sharia (2) abortion (3) same-sex marriages. Which if you think about it is a perverse contradiction. Give Muslims more social and political power. Oh and let’s have more abortion and same-sex relations. Which Islam – not to mention Christianity – generally disapproves.

So while Africa draws closer to China – because China’s interests align much more closely with African concerns – the United States is missing out on opportunities for trade and to do business in Africa. Partly because what we care about most is not what Africans see as most important. And partly because we expect African governments to do things our way.

It may look like I am just trying to pick on the Obama Administration again. And to be honest yes I am. For all the hyperbolic rhetoric about “resetting” America’s international relations the stark reality is that we are wasting opportunities. And soon it will be too late. Africa increasingly will see China as its big sister nay its auntie – wise and strong and looking out for African interests. As opposed to that petulant teenager across the Atlantic otherwise known at the United States.